First week in Damascus

Although this is the first time I’ve ever been to the Middle East, a region of the world I’ve dedicated so many brain cells to and yet had never seen for myself, I’d like to think I’m a little more informed than the next person when it comes to history, politics and society of the Middle East, especially the Levant countries. Regarding Syria in particular, I had a pretty good idea of what to expect from all the reading and speaking with others who had lived or travelled here before. The American Scott C. Davis’s book, The Road from Damascus, was an entertaining read that kept me smiling throughout. The blogs Syria News Wire and Syria Comment helped me sift through the news and stay up to speed with current events. The Damascus photo group on Flickr and the Syrian School television series provided visual context. No less than a dozen friends have helped immensely with their first hand knowledge and experience. So far everything has been just as promised, from the Syrian people’s friendliness and the yummy cheap food to the government banned websites and insane drivers.

So what am I doing here?

The reason for moving to Syria was not to stir my imagination, have a spiritual revelation and “find myself” for the first time, as is often written in pretentious travel guides. No no, I’ve already found myself. The reason for moving here was to learn Arabic, period. So, why? I touched on the reason before, but re-explored it yesterday when completing my language institution’s application form. I’m sure most of the information I provided on this form will be typed into a system by someone only half paying attention, only to be lost in the bureaucratic jungle that is the state of Syria, never to be seen again. But I was compelled by my compulsive attention to minutiae to take this banal question seriously once again…

Why would you like to learn Arabic?

Career development - I want to increase my understanding of Arabic media, both print and online, so that I can apply myself in a professional role where knowledge of Arabic is preferred or required (for example, with an international organization, NGO, etc.)

So there it is in one sentence, yet again. :)

Where I’ll study Arabic

The Arabic Language Center at the University of Damascus apparently has the largest enrollment of Damascus institutions teaching Modern Standard Arabic (MSA) or fusHa. MSA is not spoken on the streets normally. It’s too formal. Fortunately, people in Syria, Lebanon and beyond understand spoken MSA; it is, after all, used in newspapers and television. This means I can practice new vocab and grammar immediately after leaving the classroom; and, in fact, since arriving, I’ve fared pretty well speaking the limited MSA I already know. The 120 hours of part-time Arabic lessons I’ve taken before were not a waste! Thing is, when I speak MSA to locals I am answered in the local dialect, nicknamed amiye (colloquial Arabic), which forces me to learn local words and phrases quickly. This is good.

This is about the only thing I’ll say on politics

Many Americans find it hard to believe that it’s okay for me to be here. I understand why they feel this way, but I can’t believe it, if that makes sense. I can’t believe they’ve fallen for the propaganda, the scary picture that’s been painted by the mainstream media. I’ve found the best approach with this attitude is to calmly counter it with facts. Thus, on the occasions when I was faced with comments like, “Have fun dodging bombs!” or “Will you be safe?” or “Aren’t they socialist?”, I’d smile and patiently explain how, to the contrary, I understood from first hand accounts that the Syrians were warm, kind, helpful people, that petty crime and civil disobedience were very rare, and that reforms have led to greater economic freedoms (in some sectors), less corruption (though still very much of it), and more modern civil infrastructure (but still under-invested). In other words, it’s (mostly) all good.

Other accomplishments since arriving:

• Found at least two comfortable, clean cafes with tasty coffee and snacks, plus reliable, decent-speed WiFi (Sale Sucre and Moka & More)
• Got a Syrian SIM card which worked effortlessly with the unlocked HTC Desire I purchased in the UK a few months ago
• Opened a bank account, a process which took all of 30 minutes (!) 
• Learned the routes of three micro-buses, arguably the best way I’ve ever seen to get around a city (imagine a taxi that’s there whenever you need one, carries up to 10 people, picks you up and drops you off wherever you want along its pre-defined route, and costs a flat fee — 10 SYP ($0.20) — no matter how long you stay aboard) 
• Basic sightseeing, such as wandering the souqs (markets) of the Old City and the super gentrified area of Abu Rumanna
• Took a few photos

A square outside the Umayyad Mosque

View of massive Syrian flag from Muhajirin apartment